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A ROSY FUTURE AHEAD
With the lifting of the textile export volume embargo in January this year, India looks forward to a surge in exports in the textile segment. The market is out there, waiting to be exploited. Do we have what it takes to meet the demand?
The textile industry in India heaved a collective sigh of relief on January 1, 2005. For it signalled the beginning of a quota-free era for textile import and export. Imposed thirty years ago to protect industrialised countries from being inundated by the flood of exports from labour-rich developing countries, the Multi Fibre Agreement comes to an end in January 2005. This ten-year phase-out was agreed at the Uruguay round of GATT in 1994, with the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing. The MFA did not apply to trade between industrialised countries themselves. The Agreement, signed by the member countries of the World Trade Organisation, had under its purview, trade in textiles and garments made from cotton, wool and synthetic fibre. The idea behind ATC was to bring all import products under the GATT rules by 2005.
The new state of affairs will make a major difference to the US and Europe, who can now decide where to source their textiles from in the most cost-effective manner. With the quotas being lifted, Americans will probably need to pay less for their imported clothing! The European Commission, has, however, made it clear that the quota restrictions will stand till March 2005 for goods exported before January 2005, especially from non-WTO countries.
With this lifting of 84 % of global quota restrictions, India is hopeful of increasing its textile exports significantly. According to Textile Minister Shankarsinh Vaghela, exports are expected to double from the current 13 billion US dollars to between 26 and 30 billion dollars in the next two years. Obviously China too will make the most of the changed circumstances. In fact, the world is gearing up for an "onslaught" of exports in this sector from China and India, the largest manufacturers of textile items. But between the two, China most definitely has larger manufacturing capabilities as it exhibited some years back, when it trebled its production as soon as baby clothes came off the quota embargo.
The relaxation in export ceilings have got many Indian manufacturers gung-ho. The major players like Arvind Mills, Raymond, etc. are planning large-scale expansion plans. As it is, in anticipation of the relaxation in trade regulations, major international retailers have already booked garment-manufacturing units upto the financial year 2007. Large volumes are required, calling for enormous work capacities. It might even mean that units might have to join forces to meet requirements. Doing job work for bigger units than themselves is another option small units might want to examine. India's special capabilities have always been in the add-ons and embellishments like embroidery, zari, zardosi, etc. and this may be where it will have the lead over China, even providing the source for the Chinese industry in this particular aspect. In the home front, India's garment and textile market accounts for earnings of 16 billion dollars. By the way, Bangalore's Apparel Park, expected to get going by March-April 2005, is believed to be on schedule.
The quota embargo lift alone is not sufficient to better trade prospects, Indian policy makers feel. Peak tariffs need to be reduced, and labour norms need to be liberalised so that manufacturing units are not compelled to employ large number of labourers permanently, but have the option of hiring them on a contract basis as and when the need arises.
Home Textiles from India - an Exporter's Delight.
The art of dyeing and patterning cotton cloth has been with India for centuries. Weaving is nothing new to the country. Apart from this needlework is a skill that is predominant. What is special about this is not just its intricacy but the sheer variety of needlework that we are skilled at.
Embroidered home furnishings
Although India is most famous for the zari (silver and gold thread) embroidery that lends richness and a royal feel to the most mundane of colours and textures, there are many more types of embroidery that craftspeople specialise in. Like most handicrafts, these are typically community-based. Skills are passed down from generation to generation. Some of the interesting ones are kantha from Madhya Pradesh, applique from………. , katchchi from Gujarat, chikan from Uttar Pradesh, or more specifically Lucknow, satins stitch from West Bengal, special embroidered from Manipur and other North-eastern states, to name a few. These individual varieties have further specialities. For example, the chikan work that is mainly 'shadow work', i.e., worked in herringbone stitch from the reverse side of the fabric to give the 'shadow' effect, can be embellished with work that is predominently made of 'french knots'; or with work that makes such minute eyelets in the fabric to give it a netted or 'jaali' look, which is truly beautiful. Similarly the shape of the applique can vary from triangular to diamond-shaped to drop-shaped, etc.. each lending the embroidery its own appeal. Home textiles that use this variety of embellishment relies on the beauty of this workmanship alone, as the colours are always pastel and muted, and the thread used is only white! But the work is such that the pieces sell like the proverbial hotcakes. Beadwork that incorporates tiny beads are also a rage. Beads are also used in the world-renowned zardosi work. Gotta patti work that involves sewing on patches of golden thread like an applique is something that ha caught the fancy of the western world and is something that is in huge demand.
Printed home textiles
Apart from embroidered home furnishings, patterned and printed ones are also exported in large quantities from India. In this, Rajasthan and Gujarat, with their myriad techniques of dyeing, printing and patterning are clearly the leaders. Bandhani (tie and dye) and block printing are the major techniques. These are so evolved as to have distinct varieties within themselves. The technique used by a particular community is often different and distinct from the other. In the popular block printing technique, the types that stand out are the Bagru and the Sanganeri prints from Rajasthan. The former is usually red, brown or black designs on a white backgroung while the latter has a red and black background usually. Both are hand printed using blocks carved out teak wood. As many blocks are used for a single design as there are colours in it. For example, if a paisley (a very popular design known locally as the khairi or raw mango) has three colours in it, it will need three blocks, each carved with the design of that particular colour on its printing face. The colours used are usually vegetable colours that do not run, although now artificial and chemical colours are also being used.
The various types of printing and weaving the Indian artisans are skilled at are too many to even enumerate. Suffice it to say that there is a humungous variety of made-ups available. Bedspreads, quilts, quilt-covers, cushion covers, draperies, table linen, rugs, wall hangings, etc. are some of the popular items for export. An exporter need not have worries about storing of stocks as they are sure to be picked up by eager buyers as soon as they get to the stores!
Trends for this year
According to expert trend forecoasters, printed textiles are going to be a hit. Paisleys are set to dominate. Geometric designs, especially checks, are thought to have a big impact. As far as colours go, neutral colours seem to be the choice for the main upholstery with colour and vibrancy being added by the addition of colourful cushions, throws, etc. Citrus colours, apple green, etc. will enjoy a lot of popularity, experts feel.
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