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CHANGING FORTUNES
We should make the most of the fact that we are way ahead of other countries in terms of availability of raw material for the leather industry. We have the skill and the human resource too. So nothing should keep us back from being the leaders in this industry.
The use of leather has been in vogue in India from aeons ago. Whether in the form of animal hide mats used by sages of old or the sword and dagger sheaths used by kings and warriors, whether the workman's thick-soled slippers or the ornate shoes of the maharajas, leather products are as old as the country. India imports as well as exports a lot of leather and leather goods. In fact leather figures eighth in its list of exports as far as revenues go. Exports amounted to a little less than 9000 crore rupees at the end of the last financial year. This is a reversal of the trend seen in the last two years when exports declined significantly. The current figures are expected to double by 2010. A bulk of the revenue comes from shoe exports, and the projected export figure for 2010 envisages more than half to come from the same. The difference is that unlike earlier, when shoe uppers were what were in demand from India, full shoes are being exported in a big way now. Countries importing Indian leather goods, especially shoes, are Germany, Italy, Spain, Denmark, Greece, Switzerland, South Africa, Austria, Belgium, China and Indonesia.
Although shoes and shoe uppers are the top selling items among finished leather goods, leather articles like garments, fashion accessories, and saddlery and harness equipment follow close behind. Thus the industry has come a long way from exporting only 7 percent finished goods fifty years back to more than 80 percent now. But India's share in global export values is only a little over 2 percent. The target is to raise that to 5 percent by 2005-06.
India is an advantageous position as regards availability of raw material. The large population of cattle, buffaloes, goat and sheep that the country possesses ensures that India has ten percent of the world's raw material base. Of this some of the leather is premium quality and so, much sought after. In terms of manpower too, India is far ahead of competition. The manpower is vast, and skilled too. Compared to other parts of the world, this skilled labour is not very costly. The industry employs a lot of women in its 2.5 million workforce and two-thirds of the manufacturing and processing is done in the small and cottage sectors.
There is a lot of potential for growth in exports, obviously. But India will have to face competition from China, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, etc., where a lot of footwear manufacturing is taking place. This is apart from erstwhile high production centres like the East European countries of Poland, Romania, Czech and Slovak Republics, which have restarted production on a large scale now, after a hiatus of some years. India's far location from the importing countries of Europe is one of the disadvantages it has to contend with.
Other than the conventional kind of footwear and leather garments and accessories, Indian exports also include handcrafted leather goods like bags, sandals, special shoes, and jewellery, that incorporate some very ethnic, very Indian kind of embroidery and embellishments. Sequins, ribbons, gold, silver and brass coloured metallic braids, mirrors, cowrie shells, etc. go into making some very fine and artistic pieces of handicrafts. The mojris of Rajasthan and the Kolhapuri chappals of Maharashtra find a lot of buyers worldwide. Then there is the Shantiniketan type of leather goods. The camel leather 'kopi', a beautifully shaped water container is also quite a hit, They sometimes come in a wire mesh close fitting cover that in itself is a piece of art too!
Gloves in pastel leathers, that came into fashion this year is expected to continue as also are the wide leather belts encrusted with different attractive objects. Details like flowers and butterflies finished in leather, attached to hairpins are also in vogue. Garments with leather trimmings are also making a comeback. As for bags, different kinds of leather like crocodile, lizard and alligator skins form the higher range and they are in all kinds of colours like pink and mauve and green have been grabbing attention and garnering demand.
By keeping up to date with market demands and fashions, it is possible to increase exports in this segment significantly. After all, we have the raw material, the skilled workforce and the market savvy.
Leather animals - an exquisite craft
Handmade leather animals are another small item of export from India. But this is on an extremely small scale indeed as the industry is an unorganised one and one that has not been recognised. The craft is highly region-specific, the craftsmen concentrated in the Indore and Dhar districts of Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh. The art is handed down from generation to generation in a very informal set-up. With a little help from the government both at the State and the Central level would go a long way in helping keep alive this art.
The handmade leather animals are truly a visual treat. The musculature of the animals, their stance, the facial expression, are all reproduced very realistically. The basic structure of the animal models is made from wire mesh, around which is wrapped dried grass and papier mache. It is then covered with genuine leather. They are made in a few stanbdard sizes though artisans are confident of taking up orders of any kind, with little more than photographs to work upon.
These animals are imported by furniture and home décor companies and by some gift shops, mainly in the western countries. The selling items seem to be tropical or Asian animals like Bengal Tigers, Elephants, Camels, Giraffes, Panthers, and Lions. Some efforts are on, by reputed exporters like GNN International, to create some North American animals like Reindeer, Moose, Ram, etc. to cater to American tastes.
Given the right impetus, this could develop into a good industry, an important one in the handicrafts industry.
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