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The Text of Indian Text StylesHuman history , Past and present can never ignore the importance of textile in a civilizatondecisively affecting it"s destinies, effectively changing its social scenario. A brief but thoroughly researched feature on Indian Textile culture.
From
the time of creation as portrayed in the Bible Adam and Eve ensconced
themselves with leaves and then in all the ages which followed, from
the bark of trees to the finest linen, cloth was man"s constant companion.
Civilizations one after the other gave cloth or the industry, which
goes by the name of Textiles, an important role, making it a part of
their culture, tradition and heritage. Sartorial identification slowly
became Man"s requirement in the society.
Textile has been one of India"s major sources of income since yore.
Most of India"s trade links according to history was based on the
Textiles apart from Spices. The diversity and richness of Indian Textile
tradition has always been a subject of discussion amongst the occidental
milieu. The fact, which supports this discovery, is the hoards of
fragments of cotton material originating from Gujarat found in the
Egyptian tombs at Fostat, belonging to the 5th century AD. Some of
the Tamil writings of the 13th century tell that silk was exported
to Indonesia and that Indian silk had found a great market in Europe.
The origin of Textiles in India in tandem with literature goes back
to the days of Ramayana and Mahabharata. Both the epics describe the
costumes of the characters, be it the most graceful Ram or the serene
and kind Krishna, long descriptions of their costumes added color
to the two epics. The Indus Valley civilization that traced Indian
roots back to thousands of years in Harappa and Mohan Je Daro explicates
the importance of clothes or costumes or textiles, to the people who
lived in those days in the form of sculptures and paintings. Latest
excavations reveal more about the passions the race in the valley
had for textiles. The sculptures belonging to Mauryan era throw light
on the fact that Textile was considered an important factor. Ancient
Buddhist scripts and murals also support this fact. Legend has it
that when Amrapali, a courtesan from the kingdom of Vaishali met Gautam
Buddha; she wore a richly woven semi transparent sari, which speaks
volumes of the technical achievement of the ancient Indian weaver.
A similar text written in the early 16th century by a certain Duarte
Barbosa, a Portuguese travellor who describes the textile trade in
India after his visit to Vijayanagar, Southern India in 1504 A.D He
describes the large trade of the seaport of Bhatkal on its western
coast, the exports which consisted mainly of iron, textiles, drugs,
and the imports of horses and pearls, out of which the Portuguese
were very much impressed with the Textiles . The textile tradition in India is always subjected to a number of
factors like Geography, climate, social customs, availability of the
raw material etc. A variety of raw materials like silk, cotton, wool,
jute are used in India for creating fabric. Indian textile scenario now is as vibrant as ever with Gujarat,
a state in the northwestern part of the country popularly known as
the Manchester of the East. Gujarat has been involved in the textile
trade for centuries. The entire State is specialized in some form
of exotic textile weaving or the other. It has been truly remarked
by a writer in the late 16th century, "For the peasant women of Gujarat,
a needle is her pen with which she gives expression to her creativity
and reiterates her relationship with religion and nature." From the
ancient times Gujarat has been the gateway for intracultural and intercultural
exchanges. Gujarat can be linked to the ancient civilizations of Sumer,
Babylon and Egypt. The influence of various cultures had its effect
on crafts of the state as well. It is believed that the textiles from
Gujarat graced the court of the legendary King Solomon who is considered
to be the wisest man ever since creation. The best example for that
lies in the film, "Guru", directed by veteran filmmaker Rajiv Anchal.
The costumes used in the film by more than 1000 artistes, resemble
the Sumer and Egyptian costumes, exported from Gujarat centuries ago.
Indian Textile is famous basically for its uniqueness and style.
Fabrics from diverse raw materials form-to-life umpteen numbers of
wear catering to the needs of man. The most famous among them is Applique.
Applique is a decorative work in which one piece of cloth is sewn
or fixed onto another or the activity of decorating a cloth using
glass pieces metals or wood. This is one of the most traditional handicraft
art form from Orissa. The traditional applique of Punjab is called
Phulkari. Phulkari is generally made on shawls using the darn stitch
to attach pieces of cloth onto the surface of the shawl. Apart from
flowers, stylized figures of animals and plants are also used. Silk
thread is generally used in creating phulkari, though occasionally
cotton thread is also put in use. In Andhra Pradesh, the blouses and
headscarves worn by the Banjara tribal women are not only embroidered
but also decorated with appliqué and mirror work. The most ethnic
and traditionally designed textiles have also found a place in the
fashion circles abroad as well as in India. No matter what the style or the fashion is Sari continues to be
the best Indian textile and the silk weaving tradition in India revolves
around sari, as it is the choice of most women in rural and urban
India. The Silk no doubt is the best kind of clothe from India even though
China enjoyed greater popularity in producing it. In association with
ceremonial rites of ancient India, Silk has been a highly revered
fabric. Silk was popular not just among ordinary people but also the
Royal clan. The silk sari was the next attraction. The magical combination of material and color associated with silk
has led to the creation of a myriad of traditional sari styles .The
main silk weaving centers in India are Banaras, Chander, Murshidabad,
and Assam Kancheepuram, Tanjore, Dharmavaram , Mysore and Tirupur.
From deep down south to up north, each state in India is in one way
or the other is famous for its uniqueness in textile production. The past traditions of the textile and handlooms can still be seen
amongst the motifs, patterns, designs, and the old techniques of weaving
still employed by the weavers. Currently one third of India"s export earnings is from the Textile
Industry. The industry with it"s sound economic resources has employed
a lot of youth and has organized and decentralized sectors, in rural
and urban areas, particularly for women and children. Textile Industry
in India is not just another rear view mirror of our once glorious
past but also caters to the present day needs. Breaking all econometrics
Indian textiles and allied products touched a high of Rs 870.08 crore
in 1997-1998 and the export of woolen shawls reached a peak of Rs
40.02 crore in 1997-"98. The Government of India has set up National
Center for Textile Design (NCTD) to promote traditional and contemporary
designs in response to the changing market. NCTD provides adequate
growth opportunity to the textile industry in India. A lot of companies
have come up in the past two decades exporting textile materials on
a regular basis to many countries. Man cannot be precluded as far as his individual liberty is concerned.
He has the freedom and the power to choose his own way and not have
it decided by others. From the basic need to luxury, cloth has been
his boon and that"s an empirical fact. From time to time he changed
his clothing styles, from moment to moment he came up with new avenues
to make clothing more attractive and conducive. From what was nebulous
cloth became lucid and it sparked off as an industry. Indian Textile
innovations have started a frisson to course which in the years to
come will raise this Industry to the pinnacles of glory. |
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